East Side National Register

Joliet (1970) population: 76,006, the seat of Will County, lies about 40 miles southwest of Chicago. Covering nearly 26 square miles, the city is situated along the Des Plaines River, with the oldest sections of the city lying north of the junction of that river and Hickory Creek.

The Joliet East Side Historic District occupies approximately a 100-acre site directly southeast of the city’s central business district and adjacent to the Union Station Depot and the Will County Courthouse. Roughly bounded by Washington Street, Union Street, Hickory Creek, Fourth Avenue, and Eastern Avenue, the district invariably displays the picturesque texture of a once well-to-do neighborhood. The boundaries were determined on the basis of historical development and visual cohesion. On the north, elevated tracks along Washington Street form a physical boundary that separates the district from the central business district. The presence of vacant property, dilapidated structures, and recent construction adjacent to the elevated railroad tracks on the west validates a boundary drawn along the western property lines of residences fronting Eastern Avenue . Beyond these tracks to the west, and to the east south of the districts are predominantly residential neighborhoods which developed after 1900, principally after World War I. The homes in these areas are typically more modest in design and scale than those found in the district, and generally lack the district’s interesting architectural detailing. In addition to the difference in housing styles and settlement, the areas adjacent to the western and southern boundaries accommodate inconsistent land uses. Numerous abandoned commercial structures, a large manufacturing plant, and a low-rise public housing project all lie just outside the district’s boundaries.

Within the district there exists the great diversity of architectural styles prevalent during the Victorian era. Although the district contains structures dating from the early 1850’s, the majority of buildings were constructed between 1870 and 1900. The richness of details, sensitive use of building materials, and contrasting forms among structures weave the cohesive fabric of a virtually intact 19th-century neighborhood.

Land use within the district is chiefly residential. Several architecturally distinguished churches, a school, and an 1880 commercial row are among the exceptional uses that continue to serve neighborhood residents. Recent construction is negligible. There is no federal property and no industrial land use within the district.

Density in the district is moderate throughout, but somewhat lower north of First Avenue along Eastern Avenue and Richards Street, where the largest homes and lots are located. Elsewhere, street setbacks and lateral spacing of buildings are virtually uniform and always adequate. Vegetation is abundant; moderately large trees and scattered shrubs contribute significantly to the streetscape. Virtually all the residences are single-family detached dwellings and the great majority are 2-1/2 stories high. Although Joliet limestone, Illinois sandstone, and brick are utilized, frame construction is dominant.

The street pattern of the district is that of a rectangular grid aligned along the major coordinates, with the exception of Eastern Avenue, the first street to be laid out in the area. It makes a diagonal cut to the northeast between Fourth Avenue and Washington Street . Typically, structures on corner lots front the north-south streets.

Of the approximately 290 structures in the East Side Historic District, 37 have been evaluated as possessing “primary architectural and/or historical significance." One residence, the Jacob A. Henry Mansion, was listed on the National Register in 1978. Additionally, 14 structures have been evaluated as “contributing structures” of noteworthy architectural value to the district. The remaining structures serve as background, all of sufficient quality to form a good setting for their more illustrious neighbors. It is unfortunate, however, that among the background structures, once of a uniformly high quality, there are many that have suffered the ravages of modernization and inappropriate siding materials. Of the nine intrusions within the district, three are ranch-style residences dating from the 1960’s, and six are buildings of nonconforming use, such as gas stations and second-hand stores. These numbers are actually inconsequential, as large sections of the district are completely intrusion-free.

The majority of the structures in the East Side Historic District are not easily stylistically categorized; most homes bear the mark of a popular style somewhat compromised by the needs and taste of the original owner. A good many of the homes are modified and simply-massed vernacular adaptations of the Queen Anne style (#’s 2,14,19,25,28,41,50). Styles prevalent in Illinois from the 1860’s to 1910 are well represented in the district, and in addition to the Queen Anne, they include: Second Empire (#’s3,4); Italianate (#’s1,8,10,33,36,38); and Georgian Revival(#’s11,20,23,34). Only numerically less significant are a number of other types: Victorian Gothic/Collegiate Gothic (#’s6, 37,44); Romanesque Revival (#’s16,30); Prairie School (#’s13,48); and Mission /Spanish Colonial Revival(#’s31,46). Classical Revival details are applied on all types of homes, often in the form of elaborate column-lined porches (#’s9, 21,23,29,33,36,38,43). The district’s vernacular nature is furthered by the repetition of a “vernacular cottage” style throughout the district. Thus, modest, two-story residences are distinguished by Greek Revival window details and a single steeply-pitched gable (#’s22, 47,49).

Architectural Overview

In 1831, fertile soil, soft coal, and limestone deposits lured settlers to what is now Joliet. The Joliet East Side Historic District played an important role in developing the town as it attracted the area’s most wealthy people. Most of the architecturally notable residences were constructed between 1873 and 1900 when the neighborhood was the “Silk Stocking District."

Much development in the area took place after 1873 when wealthy railroad magnate Jacob A. Henry built his imposing Second Empire mansion. Henry’s arrival and his mansion created the impetus for other wealthy people to move in and create more residential development. The mansion itself covers 16,800 square feet, is constructed with some of the largest limestone slabs ever locally quarried, and was listed on the National Register in 1978.

Numerous examples of Queen Anne in pure and modified forms are in the district, as are many homes of Italianate and Georgian Revival styles. A smaller number of residences of Victorian/Collegiate Gothic, Mission/Spanish Colonial Revival, and Prairie School styles may also be found.

Among the old houses in the district is Joliet’s only surviving, intact block of 19th century commercial row buildings. Built in the 1880’s, these Washington Street buildings once housed a grocery, bakery, drugstore, hardware store, and barbershop. Beauty within the district is enhanced by original limestone curbs, street names in sidewalk tiles, and decorative Victorian streetlights.

 

Boundary Description

Commencing at the intersection of Washington Street and Eastern Avenue, the boundary extends SW along the rear lot lines of the properties facing Eastern Avenue on the west side of the street of Osgood Street, east along Osgood to Easter Avenue, SW along Eastern Avenue to the rear property line of the lot at the southeast corner of Eastern Avenue and Third Avenue, east along the rear property line of lot on the west side of Sherman Street to Fourth Avenue, west along Fourth Avenue to Grover Street, south along Grover Street to the south property line of the lot on the southeast corner of Fourth Avenue and Grover Street, east along the rear property line of lot abutting the south side of Fourth Avenue to Richards Street, south along Richards Street to Hickory Creek, NE along Hickory Creek to Fourth Avenue, west along Fourth Avenue to the rear lot line of the property at the northeast corner of Union Street and Fourth Avenue, north along the rear lot lines of properties abutting the eastern side of Union Street to First Avenue, west along First Avenue to Union Street , north on Union Street to the northern property line of 23 Union Street, west along that property line, south along the rear property line of lots abutting the west side of Union Street to First Avenue, west along First Avenue to Richards Street, north along Richards Street to Washington Street, west along Washington Street to the point of commencement.

 

Statement of Significance

The significance of the East Side Historic District lies partially in its role in the development and settlement of an urban community, and partially in its physical integrity.In all but a few respects, it exists today as an intact 19th-century urban neighborhood. Its character is derived not from a large number of truly superior structures, but from the strong and clearly visible relationships among unassuming existent structures. Original limestone curbs and street names emblazoned in sidewalk tiles combine with turrets and gables, shingles and stones, columns and arches, and even Eastlake spindles to define the picturesque eclecticism of the district. Decorative streetlights, modern but “Victorian” in character, enhance this historic texture. Indeed, the district is akin to the fanciful Queen Anne structure: an amalgam of styles pieced together to form a distinct whole.

As mentioned above, the district is significant in the historical development of the city of Joliet . It is one of the city’s oldest neighborhoods, and was once the city’s most prominent neighborhood, attracting the wealthy and influential citizens of Joliet. In fact, in the late 19th century, Eastern Avenue was referred to as “Silk Stocking Row," boasting a high concentration of any of Joliet’s notable politicians, industrialists, doctors, and lawyers. Although the complexion of the district has begun to show signs of degeneration, intrusions are far from posing a threat to its visible character. What has come down to the present then, is a nearly intact 19th-century section of a northeastern Illinois city, rich in local historical and architectural significance.

 

History

The City of Joliet was founded in 1831 by settlers who were attracted to the area by abundant fertile soil and soft coal and limestone deposits. The geography of the area was marked by bluffs to the west of the Des Plaines River Valley, at the time well-timbered, and by gently rolling prairie.

An important industrial resource of earliest Joliet that has continued to the present is the vast beds of limestone that underlie the city and surrounding area. Buildings constructed during the 19th century of local limestone still stand in many areas of the city, with several excellent examples contained in the proposed district (#’s3, 10,30,37,44). Chicago’s historic Water Tower was constructed of Joliet limestone as was the Old State Capitol in Springfield.

After two unsuccessful attempts, Joliet was finally incorporated as a city in 1852. It initially prospered as a principal transportation corridor for both river and railroad traffic. With the emergence of Chicago as the dominant commercial center of the Midwest , a new network of heavily traveled routes developed. One of these was the Illinois and Michigan (I & M) Canal, which was completed in 1848. Trade through the canal (and thus through Joliet ) grew tremendously; by 1851, over $29 million a year in goods were shipped via the I & M Canal. This traffic spurred the growth of the city, which doubled in population between 1850 and 1855. Today, Joliet’s excellent rail-water-highway transportation system has brought industrial giants (such as U.S. Steel, U.S. Rubber, Caterpillar, and General Electric) to establish plants in the city. Joliet’s major industry, however, remains in its quarries, which provide not only building material, but also soil fertilizers, and essential chemicals for steel production and other manufacturing.

In 1834, James B. Campbell made the first major purchase of property -- an 80-acre tract -- within what is now the proposed East Side Historic District. Prior to settlement, the district was flat prairie which met timbered land at the border of Hickory Creek. The plat was recorded as “Juliet” in honor of Louis Joliet in 1845 by the City Council. Campbell recorded the plat in Chicago (then the county seat of the region). To expedite land sales, one and one-half blocks were set aside for the location of county buildings. By 1836, Will County was created as a governmental unit with Joliet as its seat. This eliminated the 2-day round trip to Chicago. (Prior to 1912, the tax and building records were stored in Chicago. These records were destroyed in a fire; thus it has been impossible to accurately determine the exact date of construction for many of the buildings in the district.)

Lot sales were held on the 18th and 19th of June 1834, with lots sold primarily for speculative reasons. Between 1834 and 1852, there were six buildings constructed in this subdivision, two of which were residences. Cornelius Van Horn, one of the pioneers of the region, built his home at 301 Sherman (#23) in 1852. He was elected the first mayor of Joliet in that same year. The other residence was that of Mr. McGovney at the corner of Richards Street and Third Avenue . This structure was demolished in the 1950’s.

From 1852 to 1873, approximately 32 residences were built in the district. The neighborhood prospered due to its proximity to the central business district and the railroad station depot. In 1857, Eastern Avenue was graded with gravel, becoming one of the first streets of the city to be improved. Commercial gas lighting for residences and streets became available in 1859.

By 1873, the area was becoming a very fashionable neighborhood. With the building of the Jacob A. Henry Mansion (#3) and the development of a local water distribution system, the area came into its own as the most prestigious neighborhood in the city. The water system originally had 3,300 lineal feet of pipe which was supplied by an artesian well located at Eastern and Second Avenues.

In 1873, Jacob A. Henry, a wealthy railroad magnate, built his imposing Second Empire mansion, which even today remains the most prominent and distinguished structure in the district. This 16,800 square foot home, constructed with some of the largest limestone slabs ever quarried in the region, created the impetus for further development; after 1875, many prominent and wealthy Joliet citizens built homes in the neighborhood. Although surrounded by elegant residences by the turn of the century, the Jacob A. Henry home has remained the focal point for the neighborhood. The mansion was listed on the National Register in 1978 and is currently undergoing extensive restoration.

Most of the architecturally notable residences in the district were constructed between 1870 and 1900. During this period, the neighborhood became known as the “Silk Stocking District." The growth of two of the city’s most distinguished churches -- the Central Presbyterian Church (#6), and the Richards Street Methodist Church (#44) -- paralleled residential development in the district. In the 1840’s, modest frame structures housed the congregations. Between 1885 and 1895, as the congregations prospered, imposing limestone structures were erected.

Other extant community-serving structures include the block of commercial row buildings (#1) on Washington Street . Built in the 1880’s, these buildings housed neighborhood-oriented services such as a grocery, meat market, bakery/confections, hardware store, drugstore, and barbershop. This is the only surviving, completely intact block of 19th century commercial row buildings in the city.

The district prospered through the early 1900’s until the Depression. During the 1930’s many of the residents were no longer financially able to afford the upkeep of their large residences. The Jacob A. Henry Mansion , along with Dr. Werner’s house (#16), became rooming houses and were later converted into funeral parlors. Ten years later, when housing was at a premium during World War II, residences not previously converted from single-family use were quickly divided to accommodate the financial needs of the owners. After the war, absentee landlords and deferred maintenance exacerbated the slowly deteriorating condition of the area.

In the early 1960’s, Interstate 80 was constructed south of the district with an interchange at Richards Street. As a result, traffic flow, especially truck traffic, increased, although it is for the most part confined to Washington Street, the northern boundary of the district. The city is currently having a complete study made of the area in order to minimize through-traffic flow on residential streets.

In 1975, this area was designated by the City as one of the first “target areas” eligible for financial assistance under the HUD Block Grant program. This aid provides incentives for owners/landlords to improve their structures. Extensive use of vinyl siding as a part of exterior rehabilitation has substantially altered certain structures. Efforts are currently underway to blend neighborhood revitalization with concern for historic and architectural integrity.